After touring a variety of Hungarian vineyards a few months ago, I’d strongly recommend Hungarian wines — to enjoy now — and look for even greater things from Hungarian winemakers in the future.

Hungary, you might well ask, and with good reason. In the past, you may have picked up a dusty bottle of Egri Bikivar (also called Bull’s Blood) on the bottom shelf at your local supermarket and were, let’s say it as politely as possible, not very pleased.

Put that experience down to Communism, when the Hungarian wine industry was reduced to the lowest common denominator with emphasis on quantity, not quality. Actually, the 40 some years under Communism were just the most recent invasion the courageous Hungarians have endured. For centuries, this little crossroads in the middle of Europe has been continuously invaded, trampled and bombed by other people.

As in any wine-producing country, there are those who are more interested in quantity than quality. But, that’s not how many wine growers want to proceed. They’ve had enough of that. Now, we’re not talking about just any wine but artisan-type wines, from small family estates, where winemaking is a true labor of love. In just a little over a decade and a half since the fall of Communism, many Hungarian winemakers have made tremendous strides and are now producing the quality wines their ancestors have made for centuries. To paraphrase the lyrics in "My Fair Lady," we’re talking premium “Hungarian wine of royal blood.”

In the past, when anyone spoke of quality Hungarian wines, it was the famous Tokaji Aszu, that luscious dessert wine that richly deserves the title Louis IX gave it: “the wine of kings; the king of wines.” Tokaji Aszu is still a prize from fertile Hungarian soil, but now, talented Hungarian winemakers are also producing quality table wines as well. In addition to producing well-known wines such as Chardonnay and Merlot, a number of Hungarian winemakers and making excellent progress by looking to their heritage and producing truly Hungarian wines from indigenous cultivars. Wine sellers Select Wines calls it “a true renaissance in Hungarian winemaking.”

Up until now, it was extremely difficult to purchase quality Hungarian wines, especially if you didn't live in a major metropolitan area. But now, thanks to Monarchia Wines, these outstanding wines are now becoming more widely available in more high-quality restaurants, as well as for purchase in the U.S. Monarchia, is the first producer and negociant (wine seller/broker) to work with Hungarian artisan winemakers and help them introduce them to the U.S. market. Since Hungarian is a very challenging language, Monarchia is also helping U.S. consumers identify quality wines by giving some of these wines names that are easier to pronounce — and remember.

"We believe that by emphasizing quality, we can rediscover the wines of the Carpathian Basin,” says Monarchia Chairman and principal stockholder Nimrod Kovacs, who escaped from Hungary as a young man and then later returned to his native country as a communications executive. Wine, however, is his passion, as evidenced by his impressively stocked wine cellar, spacious enough to allow him to dine with at least a dozen or so of his closest friends and colleagues.

Considering the intense competition, Kovacs has set up a lofty goal — especially since he wants to introduce quality Hungarian wines to the U.S., where the competition is stiff and dominated by the big guys. But, by establishing long-term relationships with individual wine producers who want to concentrate on producing quality wine rather than marketing, these artisans can zero in on what they do best.

Dr. Pok Tamas (in Hungarian you list the last name first), a noted winemaker in the Eger wine region of Hungary, for example, is among this new breed of winemakers that is making excellent inroads in producing wines that reflect his dedication to producing top-quality, yet affordable, wines.

“Emphasizing classic concern for individual terroirs, he is always open to experimentation,” Monarchia Global Marketing Director Monika Elling says. “Tamas has succeeded in restoring the prestige of classic Hungarian varietals such as the Leanyka and Zengo, and features other native grapes in Bordeaux-style blends such as his exquisite Kekfrankos based Rhapsody in Red, and the outstanding Egri Cuvee.”

As Chief Enologist for Monarchia, he works closely with other winemakers in this consortium to oversee quality control for all of Monarchia’s wine production and portfolio, which emphasizes outstanding quality and limited production. The Monarchia Estate Selection, for example, features wines with limited 500- and 1,000-case production, while the wines in their Gold Selection feature super-premium wines. Their Szekszardi [sek-sahr-dee] Kekfrankos Barique Selection 2000 ($33), by noted winemaker Takler Frenec, for example, was voted the number one wine in Hungary and won a gold medal in Bordeaux at the International Wine Challenge 2003. (Only 750 cases were produced.)

“A masterpiece of complexity,” is how wine-tasters on the Select Wines panel described it. “Flavors of morello and bing cherry, berries and chocolate create the number one wine in Hungary….”

That’s quite an endorsement from wine experts.

If you like semi-dry white wines, then the Tokaj-Hetszolo Tokaji Cuvee 2000, ($13) made from 90 percent Furmint and 10 percent Harslevelu [harsh-le-va-lu] is something you’ll want to taste. Select Wine tasters describe it s having fine acidity and a few grams of residual sugar to round out the taste this light, medium-bodied wine with a crisp clean finish.

It’s difficult to select a favorite, but in reds, the 1999 Rhapsody in Red ($35) by Pok Tamas is definitely one of my favorites, and, with only 145 cases produced, definitely a hand-crafted wine. The equal blend of Cabernet Franc, Kekfrankos and Merlot delivers a fine wine with a fruity taste and a subtle hint of oak.

Another personal favorite is the Villanyi Cuvee, Evolution 2000 from Vylyan Winery, another Monarchia Gold Selection. This Bordeaux-style wine of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot and Cabernet Franc—and only a 680-case production--is a definite classic and a bargain in quality wines at $20.

And, to get back to Egri Bikaver, that’s getting a makeover too. If you want to see what it tastes like after Communism, check out the Egri Bikaver ($16) produced by noted Hungarian winemaker Toth Istvan. It will definitely change the way you think about this wine—and Hungarian wines themselves. Discover these wines now and be ahead of your friends!

Have Fun Learning About Hungarian Wines

To read more about Hungarian wines, you’ll find that The Wines and Vines of Hungary, by Stephen Kirkland, provides a good overview. ISBN 83-906566-0-4, published by the New World Publishing Company (WBJ@it.com.pl) Also www.winesofhungary.com gives an excellent introduction to the history and heritage of Hungarian winemaking, as well as the progress it is making in the world of wine.

www.hungaryuncorked.com offers outstanding information on Hungarian wines and winemakers, as well as the various wine regions, in a very knowledgeable, but quite readable form. I heartily recommend this publication.

While Hungarian wines are available in a number of New York City wine shops, they can also be ordered for delivery to your door through Select Wines LLC at 1-888-421-WINE (9463), Monday through Saturday Noon until 8 p.m., EST, or visit their web site at www.SelectWinesLLC.com or visit www.monarchiawines.com

For a limited time Select Wines is offering six of the great Hungarian estates of Hungary with selections from the top winemakers of the new era of Hungarian wines. Their sampler of Monarchia Wines offers the best of Hungarian wines from 5 top regions with 2 whites, 3 reds, and 1 dessert wine.It includes:

2002 Nyakas Pince Olivier, (Irsai Oliver), Budai

2000 Tokaj-Hetszolo Tokaji Cuvee, (Furmint, Harslevelu), Tokaj

2000 Monarchia Egri Cuvee, (Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Kekfrankos), Eger

2000 Takler Szekszardi Kekfrankos, Szekszard

2001 Vylyan Villanyi Cuvee Evolution, (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zweigelt, Kekoporto), Villany

2000 Demeter Zoltan Tokaj-Hegyalja Tokaji Furmint Late Harvest, Tokaj (500ml)

With each of these wines, you'll receive their helpful Select Wines Profiles(c) that describe the wines.

Normally,$128.00, their special price for this sale is $119.00, plus shipping (where state laws allow.)

If you want to learn more about Hungarian wines, the best way is to visit Hungary itself. Monarchia Wines Tours, which will launch in May 2004, specializes in wine and castle tours to suit your tastes. For more information, contact Ms. Nathalie Nagy (Nathalie@Protravelinc.com) of the Mosaic Group at ProTravel New York.

If you plan to visit Hungary, you might want to do so in the fall to coincide with the Budapest International Wines Festival, to be held from September 5-15 in 2004.

Whether it’s treading wine at the open air museum or Skanzen, touring the Danube on the Wine Boat, sampling various Hungarian wines, savoring local foods or just enjoying the parade and concerts, this is an event that will offer you an excellent close-up look at the world of Hungarian Wines. And, when I attended, there was even a special section of games for children—not something I would have expected at a wine festival, but it was delightful. Visit Hungary and you'll discover a whole new world of things to do, see, taste and really enjoy.