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By Manos Angelakis, Debra C. Argen and Edward F. Nesta
Monarchia Wine Tasting at The Dove
As summer days give way to autumn, we are once again in the throes of wine harvesting, and of course, wine tasting. Monarchia Matt International www.monarchiamatt.com held a tasting at The Dove,
a recently opened wine bar (previous incarnation one of Manos’ favorite Italian
restaurants “The Grand Ticino”), at 228 Thompson Street, New York, New York
on September 14, 2004, where they presented a full complement of the Monarchia
Matt International selection of wines from Argentina, Austria, Germany, Hungary,
Italy, Spain and from United States vineyards in California, Oregon and Washington.
Manos, Debra and Edward worked together to cover their vast selection of
white wines, sweet wines, and red wines; their results follow.
Manos:
It has been my experience that sweet wines complement well not only cheese,
fruit and dessert, but other foods as well; very rich fare such as fresh
foie gras, goat cheese, duck confit, lobster thermidor etc. In this tasting
there was a number of very interesting samples.
My top choices were: from Rocca Bernarda an extremely limited production, very aromatic Picolit Reserva 2001, retailing at $50 and well worth every penny; as good, from Monarchia, the Tokaj Hetszolo Aszu 6 puttonios, a deep golden-color charmer, very aromatic with peaches, tropical fruit and honey on the palate. From Cluesserath-Weiler, a Mosel producer I tasted a 2002 Riesling Eiswein Trittenheimer Apotheke retailing at $60 per bottle, very aromatic, with apricots predominating on the nose. Also from Monarchia, a 2001 Demeter Tokaji Furmint,
a late harvest, lighter, slightly drier than the above, with lots of peach,
pear, honey and ginger aromas, at $23.50 retail. From Geografico, an Italian 2000 Vin Santo; this tasted like a sacramental wine.
Debra: Since I was elected to taste the whites, I tried the Monarchia Pinot Gris 2003 from Hungary, 100% Pinot Gris, which was dry with a clean finish, from the Californian Starry Night Vineyard I tasted their Russian River Chardonnay 2002,
which was barrel fermented in French and American Oak and tasted of autumn
with apple and pear flavors, and from Italy, I tasted Terrazo “V” Verdicchio 2003 from the Terre Cortesi Winery outside
the Marche region, made from 100% verdicchio grapes, which was elegant and
fruity. All of the wines were in the lower range ($13 - $20).
Edward:
I was very pleased that within this extensive international assortment there
was a nice selection to taste across the low, medium and high price range.
Within the lower price range ($15 - $20) I continue to be amazed by the Hungarian
wines and found the Monarchia Mini Evolution 2003, to be a superb value. I also found the Monarchia Egri CuvÈe 2000, a blend of KÈkfrankos, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as refreshing as I found it during our wine-pairing diner at Amma, which you can read about in the Restaurant Section.
Within the medium price range ($21-$40) I have to stay with Monarchia Wines and the Rhapsody in Red 2000, and from Italy I found a Tuscan wine, the Malgra Monferrato 2000 to be another outstanding value, which drinks well today.
Within the high price range ($41- $75) I like the Brunello di Montalcino 1999 from Tuscany, and the Sorano Barolo-Serralunga 1999 also from Tuscany. Spain boasts the Real De Asua Reserva 1995, a treasure on the palate and the nose. Lastly, my top selections of the night, both from Hungary, the Takler Kekfrankos Noir Gold 2002, and the Takler Szekszardi BikavÈr 2002.
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© October/November 2004. All rights reserved.
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